1 00:00:00,000 --> 00:00:01,830 APOLLONIA POILANE: When you're baking bread, 2 00:00:01,833 --> 00:00:03,633 you have four ingredients-- 3 00:00:03,630 --> 00:00:08,730 water, flour, salt, and a rising agent. 4 00:00:08,730 --> 00:00:11,850 That rising agent is either yeast or a starter. 5 00:00:11,850 --> 00:00:14,130 People think of sourdough as a type of bread. 6 00:00:14,130 --> 00:00:18,990 But here, sourdough is actually the rising agent. 7 00:00:18,990 --> 00:00:21,930 When you use a sourdough, you get the richness 8 00:00:21,930 --> 00:00:25,950 and the heritage of the different generations of loaf's 9 00:00:25,950 --> 00:00:27,210 it has fed. 10 00:00:27,210 --> 00:00:28,920 What we're going to create right now 11 00:00:28,920 --> 00:00:31,950 is a little bit akin to the journey 12 00:00:31,950 --> 00:00:36,540 my grandfather embarked on in 1932. 13 00:00:36,540 --> 00:00:40,080 Today is a starting point for your journey creating 14 00:00:40,080 --> 00:00:41,710 sourdough. 15 00:00:41,710 --> 00:00:44,710 [MUSIC PLAYING] 16 00:00:54,710 --> 00:00:57,830 Today we're going to make the sourdough starter. 17 00:00:57,830 --> 00:00:59,930 This process takes five days to complete. 18 00:00:59,930 --> 00:01:06,140 And we are going to start it off by mixing yogurt, water, 19 00:01:06,140 --> 00:01:09,740 and flours to create a start point. 20 00:01:09,740 --> 00:01:12,560 In this recipe, I use and ingredients 21 00:01:12,560 --> 00:01:14,120 that we don't use at Poilane. 22 00:01:14,120 --> 00:01:17,540 I use yogurt think about the yogurt as an ingredient that's 23 00:01:17,540 --> 00:01:20,430 there just to kickstart your process. 24 00:01:20,430 --> 00:01:22,580 It helps boost the fermentation. 25 00:01:22,580 --> 00:01:25,460 In this recipe, I use both wholegrain flour 26 00:01:25,460 --> 00:01:26,990 and all-purpose flour. 27 00:01:26,990 --> 00:01:33,050 The reason why I mix both is to recreate the style of stone 28 00:01:33,050 --> 00:01:34,920 ground flour we use at Poilane. 29 00:01:34,920 --> 00:01:37,730 If you're starting this recipe at home for the first time 30 00:01:37,730 --> 00:01:42,380 you can use glass, stone, or a plastic cup 31 00:01:42,380 --> 00:01:44,060 for these first fermentations. 32 00:01:44,060 --> 00:01:46,010 What is important at this point is 33 00:01:46,010 --> 00:01:48,740 that you use a scale as you start getting 34 00:01:48,740 --> 00:01:51,530 your sourdough starter going. 35 00:01:51,530 --> 00:01:54,140 Weighing ingredients allows for more precision 36 00:01:54,140 --> 00:01:57,230 than measuring by volume and will make for a better starter. 37 00:02:01,710 --> 00:02:04,340 So I'm going to use yogurt. 38 00:02:06,930 --> 00:02:10,320 You want to have this rich culture 39 00:02:10,320 --> 00:02:15,090 yogurt you will add water to. 40 00:02:17,640 --> 00:02:19,860 The water is at room temperature. 41 00:02:19,860 --> 00:02:23,550 And that should be about 20 to 25 degrees Celsius. 42 00:02:23,550 --> 00:02:27,280 I use a whisk to put these two ingredients together, 43 00:02:27,280 --> 00:02:30,240 especially if you're using a Greek yogurt. 44 00:02:30,240 --> 00:02:33,970 It'll just make your life easier. 45 00:02:33,970 --> 00:02:38,720 And then I'm going to add the two types of flours. 46 00:02:38,720 --> 00:02:47,360 This is the all-purpose flour, and then the whole-grain flour. 47 00:02:51,370 --> 00:02:55,450 I'm going to bring this together using a spatula. 48 00:02:59,050 --> 00:03:03,460 You should be mixing for a couple of minutes. 49 00:03:03,460 --> 00:03:08,350 And we're looking for the ingredients to come together. 50 00:03:08,350 --> 00:03:11,770 As you twist and turn, scoop it, like I 51 00:03:11,770 --> 00:03:13,570 would scoop some ice cream. 52 00:03:13,570 --> 00:03:19,480 And bring it together for all of the ingredients to bind. 53 00:03:19,480 --> 00:03:22,450 If you are working in a really hot environment, 54 00:03:22,450 --> 00:03:29,290 you may need to add a little bit of water, say a spoonful. 55 00:03:29,290 --> 00:03:32,320 As this comes together, it will have 56 00:03:32,320 --> 00:03:37,180 a texture in the spectrum of a thick yogurt 57 00:03:37,180 --> 00:03:39,210 and a doughy texture. 58 00:03:39,210 --> 00:03:40,960 And you're just going to let it rise there 59 00:03:40,960 --> 00:03:46,600 for 24 hours at 20-25 degrees Celsius, 60 00:03:46,600 --> 00:03:51,540 covering it with a cloth. 61 00:03:51,540 --> 00:03:55,950 And this sourdough, what looks right now like a ball 62 00:03:55,950 --> 00:03:58,980 will flatten out and rise. 63 00:03:58,980 --> 00:04:02,230 The cloth allows a little bit of air to go through. 64 00:04:02,230 --> 00:04:06,270 We're always trying to balance between air, which slows down 65 00:04:06,270 --> 00:04:09,960 the fermentation, and the lack of air, which fosters it. 66 00:04:09,960 --> 00:04:14,430 20 to 25 degrees Celsius may be not your normal room 67 00:04:14,430 --> 00:04:15,030 temperature. 68 00:04:15,030 --> 00:04:16,950 And if that's the case, try and look 69 00:04:16,950 --> 00:04:18,900 for spaces that are warmer. 70 00:04:18,899 --> 00:04:22,109 I've been told stories about Italian mammas that 71 00:04:22,110 --> 00:04:23,910 keep the sourdough under their bed 72 00:04:23,910 --> 00:04:26,400 because that's the warmest place in their home. 73 00:04:26,400 --> 00:04:30,750 In my kitchen, I have a little nook which is draft-free. 74 00:04:30,750 --> 00:04:32,550 And that one tends to be the place 75 00:04:32,550 --> 00:04:34,770 I keep my sourdough because I know that it 76 00:04:34,770 --> 00:04:37,020 will stay a tad bit warmer. 77 00:04:37,020 --> 00:04:39,570 This sourdough is really fresh. 78 00:04:39,570 --> 00:04:42,360 And you want to have it mature a little bit so 79 00:04:42,360 --> 00:04:44,220 that it develops more flavors. 80 00:04:44,220 --> 00:04:48,900 And so tomorrow, by adding flours and water, 81 00:04:48,900 --> 00:04:51,870 we will get that much more richness to it. 82 00:04:51,870 --> 00:04:53,980 So I've covered my sourdough starter. 83 00:04:53,980 --> 00:04:56,040 And I'm going to take it to a warm place 84 00:04:56,040 --> 00:04:59,490 and let it rest for about 24 hours until day 2. 85 00:05:05,470 --> 00:05:11,030 So this is a starter that has risen for 24 hours. 86 00:05:11,030 --> 00:05:17,080 Now, it does have some stickiness and some bite 87 00:05:17,080 --> 00:05:18,040 as I'm moving it. 88 00:05:18,040 --> 00:05:20,470 It has a little bit of resistance. 89 00:05:20,470 --> 00:05:22,430 And this is what we're looking for. 90 00:05:22,430 --> 00:05:25,270 I can feel some elasticity in the dough. 91 00:05:25,270 --> 00:05:27,040 Something you might encounter if you're 92 00:05:27,040 --> 00:05:31,840 in a very warm environment is that it will rise really fast. 93 00:05:31,840 --> 00:05:35,320 If it's gone overboard, then you have to start over again. 94 00:05:35,320 --> 00:05:39,460 If the room is too cool and the starter didn't rise at all, 95 00:05:39,460 --> 00:05:41,350 then in that case give it a little more time 96 00:05:41,350 --> 00:05:44,110 and keep it an extra up to 24 hours. 97 00:05:44,110 --> 00:05:47,260 If it still doesn't rise, discard it. 98 00:05:47,260 --> 00:05:48,610 Don't be discouraged. 99 00:05:48,610 --> 00:05:50,660 Sourdough really is a journey. 100 00:05:50,660 --> 00:05:54,610 And if your loaves don't come out perfect the first time, 101 00:05:54,610 --> 00:05:58,110 then it may be the second, the third, or the fourth time. 102 00:05:58,110 --> 00:06:01,240 Another way that you can tell if the sourdough is right 103 00:06:01,240 --> 00:06:02,350 is by smelling it. 104 00:06:05,470 --> 00:06:08,770 First you smell flour, pastiness, 105 00:06:08,770 --> 00:06:10,990 and then you smell a little bit of the lingering 106 00:06:10,990 --> 00:06:12,490 sense of the yogurt. 107 00:06:12,490 --> 00:06:15,520 But really here, I think the visual cue at this stage 108 00:06:15,520 --> 00:06:16,840 is more important. 109 00:06:16,840 --> 00:06:20,300 That's a texture and a volume. 110 00:06:20,300 --> 00:06:23,410 This sourdough starter, once you started it, 111 00:06:23,410 --> 00:06:24,970 you need to keep it alive. 112 00:06:24,970 --> 00:06:27,610 If you don't feed it, then eventually 113 00:06:27,610 --> 00:06:31,180 it will die out because the little microorganisms 114 00:06:31,180 --> 00:06:34,370 inside of this sourdough don't have enough food. 115 00:06:34,370 --> 00:06:37,420 So now we're going to feed it. 116 00:06:37,420 --> 00:06:40,440 I like to start with room temperature water. 117 00:06:40,440 --> 00:06:44,730 And I'm going to add it slowly. 118 00:06:44,730 --> 00:07:01,580 I add again a mix of all-purpose flour and some whole-grain. 119 00:07:01,580 --> 00:07:04,130 Adding these ingredients is effectively 120 00:07:04,130 --> 00:07:05,690 feeding the starter. 121 00:07:05,690 --> 00:07:09,320 I am giving more food, more sugars to the microorganisms 122 00:07:09,320 --> 00:07:13,130 that are going to feed off of it and create CO2 so that we 123 00:07:13,130 --> 00:07:15,650 can start having fermentation. 124 00:07:15,650 --> 00:07:19,640 On day 2, as I'm adding the water and flour, 125 00:07:19,640 --> 00:07:21,800 I stick to the spatula. 126 00:07:21,800 --> 00:07:27,150 And you start off slowly and delicately just 127 00:07:27,150 --> 00:07:28,770 tucking in a little bit. 128 00:07:28,770 --> 00:07:31,770 What I do is I go on the side and I bring a little 129 00:07:31,770 --> 00:07:32,970 to the center. 130 00:07:32,970 --> 00:07:36,870 I turn the bowl so that it can be thorough. 131 00:07:36,870 --> 00:07:41,070 And at this point, you have a mass here where 132 00:07:41,070 --> 00:07:42,910 you can see the lumps of flour. 133 00:07:42,908 --> 00:07:44,198 But it's more or less together. 134 00:07:44,200 --> 00:07:47,100 And at that point, you can delve in and give it some energy. 135 00:07:47,100 --> 00:07:50,400 So I can start holding the bowl on the side 136 00:07:50,400 --> 00:07:53,760 and really scooping and mixing thoroughly 137 00:07:53,760 --> 00:07:57,120 to make sure that we have not only a nice mix, 138 00:07:57,120 --> 00:07:58,330 but give it energy. 139 00:07:58,330 --> 00:08:00,060 And I don't want to sound esoteric here. 140 00:08:00,060 --> 00:08:03,940 But really, when you're baking, you 141 00:08:03,940 --> 00:08:08,290 are giving an energy and an impulse to your dough. 142 00:08:08,290 --> 00:08:10,520 And the sourdough is no different. 143 00:08:10,520 --> 00:08:13,240 So to create the starter, at some point 144 00:08:13,242 --> 00:08:14,952 you need to give it a little bit of love. 145 00:08:14,950 --> 00:08:20,860 Show it that you want it to create this beautiful batch. 146 00:08:20,860 --> 00:08:24,170 And also make sure you don't have any more flour pockets. 147 00:08:24,167 --> 00:08:25,747 So the mixing here is a little harder. 148 00:08:25,750 --> 00:08:27,850 And you can see that I'm holding both of my hands. 149 00:08:27,850 --> 00:08:29,140 And I'm trying to do it firmly. 150 00:08:29,142 --> 00:08:31,392 It's not perfect. 151 00:08:31,390 --> 00:08:35,710 Here we have much more of a chewing gum 152 00:08:35,710 --> 00:08:38,980 that you've chewed for a little too long. 153 00:08:38,980 --> 00:08:40,330 It may look a little lumpy. 154 00:08:40,330 --> 00:08:42,440 That doesn't mean that there is flour pockets. 155 00:08:42,440 --> 00:08:44,290 It's just that it's dough that has 156 00:08:44,290 --> 00:08:46,300 had a little bit of time to ferment 157 00:08:46,300 --> 00:08:48,460 with some fresh ingredients. 158 00:08:48,460 --> 00:08:49,630 There we go. 159 00:08:49,630 --> 00:08:52,060 So I'm not going to mix this further. 160 00:08:52,060 --> 00:08:53,140 Scrape down the sides. 161 00:08:53,140 --> 00:08:56,260 That's just to save yourselves little parts 162 00:08:56,260 --> 00:08:59,380 that my dry out before they get into the dough. 163 00:08:59,380 --> 00:09:02,530 There we go. 164 00:09:02,527 --> 00:09:03,607 See, it's a little sticky. 165 00:09:03,610 --> 00:09:05,040 And that's a good sign. 166 00:09:08,340 --> 00:09:10,310 So I'm finished mixing it. 167 00:09:10,310 --> 00:09:14,960 It looks dense and ready to rest for another 24 hours 168 00:09:14,960 --> 00:09:16,300 at room temperature. 169 00:09:16,295 --> 00:09:18,175 I'm going to cover it up once again because I 170 00:09:18,170 --> 00:09:19,490 don't want it to crust. 171 00:09:19,490 --> 00:09:23,510 If your dough crusts because the environment is too dry, 172 00:09:23,510 --> 00:09:25,130 just mix it in. 173 00:09:25,130 --> 00:09:30,080 Usually it's not hard enough that it doesn't re-hydrate. 174 00:09:30,080 --> 00:09:31,100 So I cover it up. 175 00:09:31,100 --> 00:09:33,660 And I'm going to bring it to a warm place for another 24 176 00:09:33,660 --> 00:09:34,160 hours. 177 00:09:38,290 --> 00:09:40,720 On the third and fourth days, scoop out 178 00:09:40,720 --> 00:09:43,240 about a cup of your starter into a separate bowl 179 00:09:43,240 --> 00:09:45,760 and feed it in the same way as you did on day 2. 180 00:09:50,210 --> 00:09:52,340 Discard the rest of your starter at this point, 181 00:09:52,340 --> 00:09:54,590 as it is not ready to bake with. 182 00:09:54,590 --> 00:09:56,210 Discarding will help keep your starter 183 00:09:56,210 --> 00:09:58,190 from getting too big with each feeding. 184 00:10:02,700 --> 00:10:06,990 So here's our starter once it's rested for another 24 hours. 185 00:10:06,990 --> 00:10:07,950 We're on day 5. 186 00:10:07,950 --> 00:10:11,580 And you can see the surface is speckled with little holes-- 187 00:10:11,580 --> 00:10:14,820 the carbon dioxide that's airing out. 188 00:10:14,820 --> 00:10:16,770 Texture-wise, it's very fragile. 189 00:10:16,770 --> 00:10:20,190 So if I touch it, I can feel that there is a lot of air. 190 00:10:20,190 --> 00:10:21,780 I'm not really touching the surface 191 00:10:21,780 --> 00:10:24,300 here because I don't want to kill the structure. 192 00:10:24,300 --> 00:10:25,570 This is really what we want. 193 00:10:25,570 --> 00:10:27,870 We want these little air pockets. 194 00:10:27,870 --> 00:10:30,840 At this point, the sourdough is done. 195 00:10:30,838 --> 00:10:32,378 So we're going to do two things here. 196 00:10:32,380 --> 00:10:37,200 We're going to use half and set it aside for our bread recipe. 197 00:10:37,200 --> 00:10:40,230 The other half, we're going to keep and feed 198 00:10:40,230 --> 00:10:44,580 so that you can carry on keeping your sourdough in perpetuity; 199 00:10:44,580 --> 00:10:48,300 carry on baking loaves; carry on sharing your sourdough, 200 00:10:48,300 --> 00:10:49,920 if you want to share it with friends; 201 00:10:49,920 --> 00:10:53,020 or do another recipe calling for some sourdough. 202 00:10:56,690 --> 00:10:59,450 So once you've started the sourdough, 203 00:10:59,450 --> 00:11:02,630 the dirty little secret here is that you must keep it 204 00:11:02,630 --> 00:11:05,300 like a pet, like a plant. 205 00:11:05,300 --> 00:11:08,960 And every day or two, you must discard a portion and feed it. 206 00:11:08,960 --> 00:11:12,020 If you're going to go away for more than 48 hours, 207 00:11:12,020 --> 00:11:14,660 maybe you can have a friend feed it and give them 208 00:11:14,660 --> 00:11:16,190 your exact measurements. 209 00:11:16,190 --> 00:11:18,380 Or maybe you can travel with your sourdough. 210 00:11:18,380 --> 00:11:21,440 Or you might find a sourdough hotel. 211 00:11:21,440 --> 00:11:23,840 There used to be one in Sweden where 212 00:11:23,840 --> 00:11:27,210 people would feed your sourdough while you were away. 213 00:11:27,210 --> 00:11:31,220 But the bottom line is, this is a live organism. 214 00:11:31,220 --> 00:11:33,800 And you can't just let it go. 215 00:11:33,800 --> 00:11:36,270 If you keep on doing this process, 216 00:11:36,270 --> 00:11:37,880 you'll be able to keep it forever. 217 00:11:37,880 --> 00:11:40,440 You can share that sourdough with friends. 218 00:11:40,440 --> 00:11:43,100 You can make other uses of it-- 219 00:11:43,100 --> 00:11:46,490 say, in pancakes, a rye bread, a wheat bread. 220 00:11:46,490 --> 00:11:50,300 But keep a piece so that you can have a sourdough starter 221 00:11:50,300 --> 00:11:52,460 for the following batch. 222 00:11:52,460 --> 00:11:56,030 The sourdough starter you have should be kept in a warm place. 223 00:11:56,030 --> 00:11:58,280 It doesn't have to be incredibly warm. 224 00:11:58,280 --> 00:12:00,680 The warmer it is, the faster it'll grow 225 00:12:00,680 --> 00:12:03,300 and the more regularly you have to feed it. 226 00:12:03,300 --> 00:12:05,690 You might even want to take a sheet of paper 227 00:12:05,690 --> 00:12:07,670 and write down the feedings. 228 00:12:07,670 --> 00:12:10,520 If it's super-hot, you can refrigerate it. 229 00:12:10,520 --> 00:12:12,440 If that's the case, then just make 230 00:12:12,440 --> 00:12:15,950 sure that you seal the top so it doesn't absorb all the smells 231 00:12:15,950 --> 00:12:17,750 of your refrigerator. 232 00:12:17,750 --> 00:12:20,670 But also, and mainly, so it doesn't crust. 233 00:12:20,670 --> 00:12:23,600 So this sourdough, the best way you can show it 234 00:12:23,600 --> 00:12:26,480 love, the best way you can keep it is by baking. 235 00:12:26,480 --> 00:12:29,780 Because when you bake with the sourdough, 236 00:12:29,780 --> 00:12:34,070 you will be able to tell what it has given to the loaf. 237 00:12:34,070 --> 00:12:38,090 As we feed the sourdough, as it grows-- 238 00:12:38,090 --> 00:12:41,970 it will develop, much like at Poilane, a distinctive flavor. 239 00:12:41,970 --> 00:12:45,200 It will show the different flours to different batches. 240 00:12:45,200 --> 00:12:49,130 Maybe some years you'll wind up on a flower blend 241 00:12:49,130 --> 00:12:51,770 that will have different flavors than from another. 242 00:12:51,770 --> 00:12:54,890 And that can only enrich this environment. 243 00:12:54,890 --> 00:12:58,750 And this is why each sourdough is unique.