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[MUSIC PLAYING]

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APOLLONIA POILANE
(VOICEOVER): In the 1930s,

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St. Germain des Pres was an
up-and-coming neighborhood.

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There was a bakery here
since the French Revolution.

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And my grandfather,
when he started,

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had a lot of competition.

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At the time, the Parisians
were favoring whiter breads,

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typically the baguette.

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To distinguish himself
from his competition,

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my grandfather baked
wheat sourdough loafs.

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In baking, these big hugs
of breads, my grandfather

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found his audience.

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This neighborhood was filled
with artists and craftsmen

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that could barely
pay for their rent.

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And so they would get some
sourdough and it would keep.

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And that made a world
of difference for them.

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Because smaller and whiter
breads keep less long.

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And that's what set off
my grandfather's success.

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Yeast is faster.

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It's instant.

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It doesn't call for
any maintenance.

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The beauty of sourdough is that
it has a distinctive flavor.

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It keeps your bread longer.

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It gives it a more specific
aromatic signature.

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But it's a lot of work.

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And in choosing a
sourdough method,

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my grandfather made a choice
that was harder, but just so

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much more rewarding,
because it had a story.

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It has a flavor.

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The recipe that we
do today at Poilane

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is the same as we did when
my grandfather started.

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So in this chapter, I am baking
an at-home version of the bread

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we do at the bakery.

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The recipe that
I'm gonna guide you

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through is one that reproduces
some of the key gestures,

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but also some of the key
qualities of my bread.

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It's got a thick
crust, a dense crumb.

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The air bubbles are rather
small and very well spread out.

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And those are the
qualities we're going

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to look for in the final loaf.

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So while this is
one of the hardest

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recipes in the curriculum,
do not be deterred by it.

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You can start or
finish by this recipe.

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Ultimately, it's about
building your confidence

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and your library of gestures.

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So in this recipe,
we are going to use

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the sourdough starter,
the yeast, sea salt.

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We have wholegrain flour.

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We have all-purpose flour.

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And we have water.

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In my at-home
methodology, I have

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used two different
types of flour

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to recreate the flour
I use at the bakery.

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Now, the difference between the
two is have much of the grain

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do we extract?

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In the all-purpose
flour, you have

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less of the outer envelopes.

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And the whole grain, it's the
whole grain that's ground.

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If you have that
option, make sure

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that your flour is stone ground.

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When you stone grind
flour, it tends

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to keep the natural oils
that are in the flour.

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The other methodology
heats up the grain.

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The oils come out.

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And the flour is drier.

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And this throws off, a
little bit, the equilibrium.

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So the first step is
preparing the yeast.

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I use active dry yeast
here to boost the starter.

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I'm mixing the water
to activate the yeast.

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After a couple of minutes,
if you mix with a fork,

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you'll see these
little air bubbles,

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showing that it's
slowly activating.

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I know that sourdough
is methodology

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that tends to scare people.

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And I thought that it would
be useful to start off

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this way, knowing that,
as you experience baking,

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you'll eventually be
able to do without it.

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The other ingredient
I prepare is

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I dissolve the salt in water.

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I think this is especially
important in home baking,

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because whereas at
the bakery, when

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we're baking a
batch of 50 loaves,

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the salts can be spread out.

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In such a small bowl, you
just don't have as much space

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to easily mix it together.

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In my recipe, I use
sel de Guerande.

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And we've been using it forever.

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And it does give a distinctive
flavor to the bread.

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At some point, we had
an oil spill in France

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that prevented us from using
it for a couple of seasons.

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And we could really taste
the difference in the breads.

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We used sea salts from
the Mediterranean.

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And you could tell that
the terroir was different.

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If you can't get
sel de Guerance,

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then you should use
a coarse sea salt,

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a sea salt that might
be even a little gray,

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because it has a little bit
of the glaze, that's fine.

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Do not take an
overly refined sea

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salt. Or if you only
have that at hand, maybe

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reduce the salt
amounts by a third.

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Because otherwise, it
will just get too salty.

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I have my sourdough starter.

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You can see the air
bubbles on the top.

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Try and, more or less,
delicately bring it

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into the bowl, to not break all
the structure it has inside.

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I'm gonna put the yeast.

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I'm gonna put a little
bit of flour on top of it.

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And this is just to prevent the
salt from immediately touching

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the active or dry yeast.

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It tends to annul
the work of the yest.

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So I add the two flours.

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And then, I pour the water
over the bowl, using the rims.

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This way, I can start
getting the water to scoop up

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all of what's in the middle.

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This is not in perfect science.

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This is just my habits.

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As I've poured in the water, the
water has gone through the side

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and scooped up all
of the matter that's

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underneath, the sourdough, the
flour, the salt, the yeast.

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This is a good indication that
we're at a good starting point

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here.

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I believe that there's
nothing more satisfying,

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especially when you're
baking one loaf,

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than to feel how the
dough feels in your hands.

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I'm gonna flour my hands, just
to remove the excess humidity.

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This is especially important
if it's humid out there.

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And don't be worried if you're
dirtying the working surface.

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Because eventually, we'll turn
the dough onto the surface.

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You can choose to mix
it entirely in the bowl.

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But I like to turn it on
to the working surface

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to really get a feel and
just having more space

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to knead the dough together.

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At this stage, the
most important part

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is just bringing all the
ingredients together.

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I keep one hand
clean on the side.

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And this is so that I can work
with the dough thereafter.

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So here, with one hand,
turning the dough.

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I'm just scooping the flour in
and blending it with the water.

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And very quickly, you'll
notice that the dough

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absorbs the water, between the
flour, the sourdough starter.

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Keep the fingers of this
hands close together.

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That's just because this
dough is very sticky.

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And it's that much less that
you'll need to pull off.

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When you have a sense that
there's no more water visible,

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this is when I would
turn over to the table.

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Now, even if at the bottom end
you have a little bit of flour,

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that's fine.

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We'll work that into
the dough on the table.

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My clean hand here comes
in really practical.

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I'm going to flour my surface.

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I'm gonna remove the
excess from my hand.

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Here, it's just about
the bigger pieces.

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And I'm gonna use
the dough scraper

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to just scrape down all of the
dough that you have inside.

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So here we have this
funny-looking dough.

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You have a little
bit of extra flour.

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That's fine.

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The idea here is to really
bring the dough together.

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My clean hands maybe needs
a little more flowering.

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Remove any excess flour.

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You don't want to throw off
the balance of the ingredients

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you've created.

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OK.

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So you have this material.

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It's coming together.

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I will just try and bind this.

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And I bind it turning the--

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the dough, bringing one
piece into the center.

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And here, you'll wind up
with a coarse texture.

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As you progress on
this stage, make

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sure to not be shy to add
more flour on your hands.

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Do it as if you were shaking
one hand or washing your hands.

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To remove any excess
dough, don't try and put it

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back into the dough.

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It's just unpleasant.

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Any little piece
that consistency

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are trying to stay on
the table get discarded.

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So we have this piece of dough.

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It's more or less come together.

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The movement we are
trying to create here

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is I treat this surface
as if it were a flour.

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And each petal gets
folded into the middle,

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as if it needed to be folded in.

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And I use the bottom
part of my hand

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to bring it into the center.

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As I'm kneading it, I'm
constraining the dough,

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activating the yeasts
and microorganisms.

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I'm bringing together
all the ingredients.

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If you're heavy handed at
first, that's absolutely fine.

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It may take a little longer
for the dough to come together.

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But a few tricks
here are noteworthy.

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First, if it's a really hot
day pour your water cold.

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Conversely, if it's
a really cold day,

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you can keep your water warm.

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If you feel that it's
a really hot day,

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the dough will tend
to expand quite fast.

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So don't be afraid of feeling
that you're tightening up

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the dough.

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Because look, just
putting it like this,

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it's just moving up and opening.

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Conversely, if it's
a really cold day,

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you'll want to treat the
dough more delicately.

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This kneading process can last
up to 5, 7, 10 minutes at most.

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But anything beyond
that will be too much.

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All in all, between the
mixing of the ingredients

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and kneading it
by hand, you want

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to make sure that it lasts
no more than 20 minutes.

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The dough has come together.

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There's lots of little craters.

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It's not an entirely
smooth surface.

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It's a little granular.

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But that's OK.

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All the ingredients
have come together.

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I don't see any
major flour pockets.

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I'm going to flour my bowl.

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It's OK if you do a little
bit of excess flower here.

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And cover it up and leave
it to rest for 45 minutes.

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This time frame
is an indication.

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The visual cue we're
looking for at this point

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is a doubling in size.

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If you are in a very
warm environment,

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you're dome might rice faster.

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While I'm gonna cover
it up and keep it

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in a draft-free,
warm space, I'm gonna

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check on it after 30 minutes.

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If the dough has risen to
about twice the volume,

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then I will take
it there, shape it,

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and prove it in its final form.

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Conversely, if you feel
that the dough is having

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a little bit of a hard
time after 30 minutes,

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then try and find a warm
space, not hot, warmer.

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Don't uncover the dough.

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Because uncovering the
dough might create a crust

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on this loaf.

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And that will prevent it
from expanding yeast further.

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So covering it up
and bringing this

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into a draft-free space
for about 45 minutes.

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The dough has rested
for 45 minutes.

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It's doubled in size.

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That is the visual cue
you're looking for.

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You can use, on a transparent
bowl, a measurement

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of how high it's got.

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If it's a little under proofed,
you can leave it another 10,

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15 minutes.

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The indications
I'm looking for is

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a dough that feels airy
and responds to your hands.

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00:12:31,050 --> 00:12:33,930
It's one that if
you touch it, you

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00:12:33,930 --> 00:12:36,090
can feel that it's resilient.

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00:12:36,090 --> 00:12:38,320
It's got some elasticity to it.

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00:12:38,320 --> 00:12:39,540
But it still is rising.

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00:12:39,540 --> 00:12:40,740
That's a good sign.

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00:12:40,740 --> 00:12:44,910
If you touch a little down and
it deflates, it's over proofed.

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00:12:44,910 --> 00:12:47,460
And there's nothing really
you can do at that point.

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00:12:47,460 --> 00:12:49,290
I would stop the recipe there.

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00:12:49,290 --> 00:12:51,360
If it's a little
hard and it hasn't

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00:12:51,360 --> 00:12:53,670
grown that much,
leave it a little more

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00:12:53,670 --> 00:12:57,330
time, but not too much, because
otherwise the dough will

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00:12:57,330 --> 00:13:00,920
go sour, it's over fermented,
and that's not pleasant.

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00:13:00,915 --> 00:13:03,585
And just-- it will not rise.

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00:13:03,580 --> 00:13:06,180
So we bring it back to
the floured surface.

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00:13:06,180 --> 00:13:08,070
Remove any excess.

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00:13:08,070 --> 00:13:11,130
This is just about
making sure it

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00:13:11,130 --> 00:13:13,600
doesn't stick on the surface.

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00:13:13,600 --> 00:13:17,100
And we are going to take
the dough and shape it.

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00:13:17,100 --> 00:13:20,730
Now, by deflating the dough a
little bit and then shaping,

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00:13:20,730 --> 00:13:24,210
it gonna give it a
breath and an energy.

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00:13:24,210 --> 00:13:27,210
We're going to give it the
momentum so that it can rise

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00:13:27,210 --> 00:13:29,250
to become this beautiful loaf.

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00:13:29,250 --> 00:13:30,880
And you have two options here.

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00:13:30,880 --> 00:13:34,230
You can use a wicker basket
covered in cotton or linen.

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00:13:34,230 --> 00:13:38,370
Or you can use a much more
do-it-yourself version

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00:13:38,370 --> 00:13:40,680
using a colander and
a piece of cloth.

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00:13:40,680 --> 00:13:45,540
In both cases, make sure that
you flour them adequately.

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00:13:45,540 --> 00:13:47,010
Don't be shy.

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00:13:47,010 --> 00:13:49,170
Rather have a little too
much flour at the start.

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00:13:49,170 --> 00:13:52,620
You can always brush it off once
the loaf is finished proofing

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00:13:52,620 --> 00:13:53,910
and about to bake.

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00:13:53,910 --> 00:13:55,530
And even if it's
after baking, you

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00:13:55,530 --> 00:13:57,750
can still remove a little
bit of the excess flour.

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00:13:57,750 --> 00:14:00,780
At Poilane, we use wicker
baskets with linen cloth

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00:14:00,780 --> 00:14:01,590
inside.

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00:14:01,590 --> 00:14:03,870
And we use them again and again.

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00:14:03,870 --> 00:14:05,430
We don't wash them.

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00:14:05,430 --> 00:14:10,470
We scratch the excess
crust, that the hydration

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00:14:10,470 --> 00:14:14,040
of the loaf and the flour
creates in the bottom.

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00:14:14,040 --> 00:14:16,320
But ultimately, this
is an environment

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00:14:16,320 --> 00:14:18,510
which favors the fermentation.

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00:14:18,510 --> 00:14:20,250
And as you bake
batches of bread,

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00:14:20,250 --> 00:14:22,110
you will notice that
your fermentation

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00:14:22,110 --> 00:14:26,170
will be faster and faster
in this proofing stage.

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00:14:26,170 --> 00:14:26,670
All right.

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00:14:26,670 --> 00:14:32,310
So I really brush off, with my
hand, the excess flour here.

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00:14:32,310 --> 00:14:38,510
I can just dry out my
hands and pour the dough.

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00:14:38,510 --> 00:14:41,020
Now, you can use the
dough scraper here.

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00:14:41,020 --> 00:14:42,970
And that's really
the best method.

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00:14:42,965 --> 00:14:49,605
And you'll see the dough,
putting it face down,

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00:14:49,600 --> 00:14:53,470
comes into one quite nicely.

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00:14:53,470 --> 00:14:54,760
So I take the dough.

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00:14:54,760 --> 00:14:59,320
And I get a sense of
how it feels like.

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00:14:59,320 --> 00:15:00,760
It still is sticky.

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00:15:00,760 --> 00:15:03,070
But it comes
together much faster.

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00:15:03,070 --> 00:15:06,370
If I leave it on the table,
you can see it expands slowly.

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00:15:06,370 --> 00:15:07,400
And that's a good sign.

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00:15:07,400 --> 00:15:09,610
It means that you have the
good fermentation activity

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00:15:09,608 --> 00:15:12,878
that you want to shape it.

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00:15:12,880 --> 00:15:16,040
I have the piece of dough
that's poured out on the table.

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00:15:16,040 --> 00:15:22,870
I take it and I tuck it
over, do this sort of fold.

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00:15:22,870 --> 00:15:24,940
And then, I grab it.

309
00:15:24,940 --> 00:15:32,340
And I'm going to create
a movement top left

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00:15:32,340 --> 00:15:37,010
to bottom right,
turning, tucking

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00:15:37,010 --> 00:15:39,050
the dough underneath
it, and using

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00:15:39,050 --> 00:15:41,330
the other hand as a stopper.

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00:15:41,330 --> 00:15:44,390
This is a gesture you will
do over and over again.

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00:15:44,390 --> 00:15:46,980
Once you've come into
sync with this gesture,

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00:15:46,975 --> 00:15:49,105
you'll actually realize
this is kind of like giving

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00:15:49,100 --> 00:15:50,990
a breath to this loaf of bread.

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00:15:50,990 --> 00:15:53,030
This is one of my
favorite stages.

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00:15:53,030 --> 00:15:55,730
And one where,
once I acquired it,

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00:15:55,730 --> 00:15:59,180
I really felt that I
was becoming a baker.

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00:15:59,180 --> 00:16:01,310
When you're doing this
for the first time,

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00:16:01,310 --> 00:16:04,010
a classic beginner's
mistake is to just think

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00:16:04,010 --> 00:16:05,870
you're just tucking,
like you would

323
00:16:05,870 --> 00:16:07,680
tuck the sheets under a bed.

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00:16:07,680 --> 00:16:12,590
Here, you're really tucking into
the center bottom of the loaf.

325
00:16:12,590 --> 00:16:16,440
And I'll show you where
this makes a difference.

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00:16:16,440 --> 00:16:19,300
You have this clean top surface.

327
00:16:19,300 --> 00:16:22,030
I'm going to pour the
loaf into the box.

328
00:16:22,030 --> 00:16:24,900
And here, I have a good loaf.

329
00:16:24,900 --> 00:16:28,920
And I know this, because the
key of the loaf is just here.

330
00:16:28,920 --> 00:16:32,250
It's just this little hole
or this little scarring

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00:16:32,250 --> 00:16:35,700
that indicates that I've really
brought the dough together

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00:16:35,700 --> 00:16:37,560
into one spot.

333
00:16:37,560 --> 00:16:40,950
All of the rest of the
surface is rather smooth.

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00:16:40,950 --> 00:16:43,650
When you're a beginner,
what tends to happen

335
00:16:43,650 --> 00:16:46,860
is you just tuck the
dough on the sides,

336
00:16:46,860 --> 00:16:49,290
moving it along
and using the flour

337
00:16:49,290 --> 00:16:53,250
as the thing that basically
just sweeps the dough around.

338
00:16:53,250 --> 00:16:56,640
The effect it has once you turn
it, the dough into the basket,

339
00:16:56,640 --> 00:17:00,000
is you tend to have this
hole that's more about 2/3

340
00:17:00,000 --> 00:17:01,240
of the inner side.

341
00:17:01,240 --> 00:17:04,050
And that means that you
haven't done a good job

342
00:17:04,050 --> 00:17:06,240
at shaping the dough together.

343
00:17:06,240 --> 00:17:07,950
As long as you
don't feel like you

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00:17:07,950 --> 00:17:12,120
have a volcano's
little crater here,

345
00:17:12,119 --> 00:17:13,709
I would just leave
the dough to that.

346
00:17:13,710 --> 00:17:15,720
You don't want to
overwork the dough.

347
00:17:15,720 --> 00:17:17,910
This is a stage where
you want to give

348
00:17:17,910 --> 00:17:19,770
some strength and some force.

349
00:17:19,770 --> 00:17:22,950
You want to give some
breath, whatever word to you

350
00:17:22,950 --> 00:17:27,030
means that you're giving
life to this loaf.

351
00:17:27,030 --> 00:17:29,520
But do not overdo
it, because you

352
00:17:29,520 --> 00:17:32,100
don't want to strangle all the
fermentation activity that's

353
00:17:32,100 --> 00:17:33,690
going on in here.

354
00:17:33,690 --> 00:17:36,810
Here, what I'm looking
for is for this

355
00:17:36,810 --> 00:17:41,850
though to rise to just
the top of this basket.

356
00:17:41,850 --> 00:17:43,830
It should be about
a finger away.

357
00:17:43,830 --> 00:17:47,400
It can be up to the top
but not beyond that.

358
00:17:47,400 --> 00:17:51,060
If it's gone beyond, then
you've over fermented the dough.

359
00:17:51,060 --> 00:17:53,940
And more likely than
not, in your oven,

360
00:17:53,940 --> 00:17:55,770
the dough will collapse.

361
00:17:55,770 --> 00:17:58,470
At that point, you
can decide two things.

362
00:17:58,470 --> 00:18:03,090
You can not bake your dough
and use it for another use.

363
00:18:03,090 --> 00:18:05,250
Or you can carry on
baking it and know

364
00:18:05,250 --> 00:18:08,400
that you're gonna have a
crumb that's much denser

365
00:18:08,400 --> 00:18:12,030
and use it to make French
toast, for example, or croutons.

366
00:18:12,030 --> 00:18:13,530
The dough is in the
proofing basket.

367
00:18:13,530 --> 00:18:16,860
And I'm going to let it
rise for another two hours

368
00:18:16,860 --> 00:18:20,160
in a warm, draft-free space.

369
00:18:20,160 --> 00:18:22,530
Here, you really want
to treat this loaf

370
00:18:22,530 --> 00:18:27,840
as if it were a pet, a child
that you really want to shield

371
00:18:27,840 --> 00:18:30,240
from drastic environments.

372
00:18:30,240 --> 00:18:33,690
So keep it in a stable
environment, draft-free.

373
00:18:33,690 --> 00:18:37,110
Cover it up, so that
the bottom of the loaf

374
00:18:37,110 --> 00:18:42,030
doesn't become crusty and
doesn't impede the rise.

375
00:18:42,030 --> 00:18:47,150
And two hours later, we'll
have our loaf ready to bake.