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[MUSIC PLAYING]

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APOLLONIA POILANE: What
I like about sourdough is

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you have a thick crust
that's distinctive in color

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and in thickness.

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I like to have this tight crumb.

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You get a sense in the movement
of the way the dough was knead.

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You have these wonderful
smells of the wheat flour.

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You have a little bit of the
sourness of the sourdough.

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And those are the
qualities we're going

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to look for in the final loaf.

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To bake the loaf, you'll
need to preheat the oven.

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Once the oven is
at the right heat,

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I put a cocotte inside
so that it warms up

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the cocotte for
about 25 minutes.

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I use this Dutch oven so that
I can have a stronger heat.

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When you're at the bakery, we
bake a batch of 30, 50, 100

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loaves at a time.

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And we have this momentum
with the other loaves

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and the proximity of the
different loaves in the space.

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And that helps the loaves grow.

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Literally, the proximity
of these different loaves

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in the oven at a
regular interval

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helps and creates a momentum
that makes for a nicer loaf.

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So in using a Dutch
oven, I'm trying

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to recreate this closeness
but also reinforce the heat.

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My dough has proofed
for about two hours.

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It's reached the
top of this basket.

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This is just about the
maximum you want to have it.

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If it's a finger away from
the top, that's great.

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It should not have overflown.

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If it has, bake it immediately.

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The dough will likely
collapse a little bit.

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That's OK.

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Maybe not entirely,
but it'll just

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be a little flatter,
a little denser.

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If you're still more than two
fingers away from the top,

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then maybe let it
proof for another 10,

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15 minutes but no more.

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At this point, you don't
want to over-touch the dough.

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But you can get a sense
and feel for the texture

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by using the back of your hand.

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So while it's a
little sticky here,

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you can feel that it's
got fragility to it.

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But it's got some body.

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This is a good indication,
but it's not a test.

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I would really trust the
rise more than the resistance

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of the dough.

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I'm going to set the dough
aside and remove the Dutch oven

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from the oven.

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Quickly close the oven here.

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Watch out for this is hot.

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You can flour the inside.

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And here, you are going
to toss the dough inside

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of the cocotte.

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Because this is a
flour surface, it

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should just plop in as
you heard that sound.

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"Schploof."

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But if it tends to stick,
just keep it above.

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And try and help it in by
just scooping it inwards.

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Just bear in mind this is warm.

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Now, here I use
one of my blades.

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It's a razor blade.

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It should be sharp and fresh.

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You could use a
very sharp knife.

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It will be harder.

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The advantage of a razor
blade is that it's very thin.

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Scoring is the last intervention
you can do to the dough

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before it goes into the oven.

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It creates a
direction to the way

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the loaf will
crackle in the oven.

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I like to give it
some simple shapes.

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But as you start practicing
your art of baking,

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then you might get
more into details.

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The trick here is
if your loaf has

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risen a lot, make
sure to score very

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lightly, just
marking the loaf top.

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Conversely, if your loaf has
been having a hard time rising,

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this is a moment
where you're going

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to deeper and a
little more forcefully

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to give the dough some boost.

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So I'm going to score a hash.

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That's the easiest
shape and the one

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that you should start off with.

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Now, watch out.

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This is warm.

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So create the two
parallel lines on one

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and then the same thing
on the other side.

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The dough will very
quickly open up.

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And at that point,
you're going to want

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to cover it up relatively
fast and bring everything

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into the oven.

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This pot being warm, you
want to make this gesture

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relatively fast because
the bottom part of the loaf

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is already starting to bake.

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[MUSIC PLAYING]

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While a loaf is baking, I'm
just going to flour this top

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and show you different
methods to score this loaf.

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If you have a loaf that's
really under-proofed,

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this is a great
opportunity for you

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to work on your scoring skills.

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In my recipe, I
use a simple dash.

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This is the one we've been
doing at Poilane since 1932

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and until 2000 when we
started scoring a P.

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That's around the time that
I started apprenticing.

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And my bakers have
always told me

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that when we used to do
a hash, the dough reacted

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in a different way than
when we started doing the P.

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So the scoring really impacts
the way the dough rises.

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And so start off
with a hash, and then

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as you build your
confidence in your dough

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and in your baking
practice, venture off

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to put your initials
or create a landscape.

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So if you're doing
a hash, I would

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use the bottom of the
basket as your indication

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of where to slash so just
creating a hash here and here.

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But then if you want to
do something a little more

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elaborate, say, a wheat ear,
then we can do a little cut.

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And this dough will
collapse a little just

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because it's under-proofed.

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But you can get a
sense by pulling it

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what the design will look like.

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If your dough is under-proofed,
slashing it really deep, say,

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like this and creating a really
almost finger-deep slash,

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you really can give the
opportunity for the bread

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to rise up to the occasion.

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Conversely, if your
dough has over-proofed,

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then you want to be very
delicate and just very slightly

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caress open the dough.

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Now this comparison
allows you to see

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what force you should put
as you slash the dough open.

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Scoring is really about
directing the natural cracks

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which will happen.

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So you could even choose to not
score whatsoever or just simply

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do a big cross or just
one big slot open.

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If you over-score,
what will happen

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is that the dough
will tend to collapse.

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While initially, for
an under-proofed dough,

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it might help it get a boost,
if you put too much air in it,

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all of the air pockets,
all of the structure

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you've been working on for
the past couple of hours

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is just going to break through.

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[MUSIC PLAYING]

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Our loaf is ready.

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And what you're looking for
is a crust that is golden.

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And you can bring it
to a level that it's

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bien cuit as we say in French.

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I like bread when
it's well cooked.

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Thoroughly cooked bread
is more digestible.

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The baking is what breaks down
the proteins in the bread.

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So let's take this one out.

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You can even use a wooden
spatula to help you pull it up.

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The main thing here
is the loaf is hot.

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So do watch out.

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I'm going to bring this closer
and hold it and knock it.

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Now that clear sound, not
muffled, just very clear

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like I was knocking on a door--

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that's a good sign.

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Now, if you look
at this loaf, it's

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the minimum bake on the
surface that I want.

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Anything under this
color is an indication

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that it's probably not
thoroughly cooked inside.

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If not only do I have a very
clear color on the outside,

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but as I knock,
it's muffled, you

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can absolutely take this loaf.

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Put it back in your Dutch oven.

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Put it back in the oven
for five, 10 minutes

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and get a little more of a bake.

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Once this loaf is
out, it's on the rack,

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you absolutely need to cool it.

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I know that the smell of
bread is irresistible.

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But you must refrain from it.

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Because as this bread
is cooling down,

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it's carrying on its baking.

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I would leave the loaves to
cool down for about an hour.

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If you can hold it for a
couple of seconds in your hands

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without feeling that it's
overly warm, then you're good.

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After an hour, your loaf may
be still a little warm inside.

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And that's OK.

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The residual heat in
there will quickly

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vanish as you cut through it.

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[MUSIC PLAYING]

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Once your loaf has cooled
down, prop it up on the side.

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And hold it at arm's length.

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Holding it at arm's length
it gives you more strength

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to work through the crust.

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Now, that sound, clear, simple,
strong sound, is a good sign.

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It indicates to me that the loaf
is thoroughly cooked inside.

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The moist dough is not muffling
the sound of the knife cutting

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through the crumb.

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I like to cut my bread this
way because it gives me

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a better grip.

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If you're cutting
through size like this,

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you have a much
wider surface here

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to cut through and that
much more opportunity

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of going a little
sideways and sometimes

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even cutting your fingers.

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So it's just about stability
as you're cutting through.

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So I just cut through this loaf.

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And it's nice to look at
and compare both halves.

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The air pockets are regular.

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There's one or two that are a
little bigger here and here.

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But overall, you have
this tight crumb.

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You get a sense in the movement
of the way the dough was knead.

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You see the sort of, like,
circular movement in it.

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You have a thick crust
that's distinctive in color

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and in thickness to the crumb.

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What I like about this dough
is that it's nicely risen.

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So it's not the same
height in the center

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as it is on the last third.

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You have a little bit of the
sourness of the sourdough.

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But especially in
your first batches,

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that may not be as potent as in
the batches you develop later.

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You have these wonderful
smells of the wheat flour.

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You have the presence
of the sourdough.

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But overall, you get
a sense of a density

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and thickness in those smells.

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They're lingering,
and they're present.

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And those are all good signs.

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This bread will keep
for five to seven days

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because it's got
a dense structure.

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If the air pockets were bigger,
the bread would dry out faster.

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Because this is quite a
complex and hard dough to make,

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what I would recommend when
you're working on this dough

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is to keep a log.

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Take a sheet of paper.

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Write your impressions,
your feelings as you

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walk through the
different processes.

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When we train our
bakers at the bakery,

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we have nine months
to attune our five

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senses to how it is that the
perfect loaf will rise out

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of the oven.

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Over the next couple
of months or years

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that you practice your
baking with my methodology,

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you will start developing
this library of gestures.

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Attune your five
senses to how to bake

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a constant and
beautiful loaf, not

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be discouraged by
failed attempts.

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We've all made mistakes.

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That's what our
apprenticeship is about.

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And that's what your
journey is about.

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All right.

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So I'm cutting
through the middle

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here and then cutting
through a slice.

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Still a regular crumb.

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It has a rather
sponge-ish texture here.

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It's ever so slightly moist.

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I would recommend
using salted butter.

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00:12:32,030 --> 00:12:35,750
And maybe it's just
my own personal taste.

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But it just brings out all of
the flavors you've worked for.

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And this will make
for the perfect bite.

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Mm-hmm.

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The first bite into
your first loaf,

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the first bite
into your nth loaf,

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there is nothing that makes
me happier than biting

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through a fresh piece of bread.

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This sourdough bread
is not all that big.

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So you can probably will eat it
in the next three to four days.

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00:13:10,870 --> 00:13:14,020
But to keep it up to a
week, try and make sure

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that you put all the
pieces together as if you

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were to rebuild your sourdough.

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And you can leave it on a
piece of wood and cover it up.

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What you're trying to do is
actually strike the balance

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between dryness and humidity.

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The cloth that you
surround yourself with

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will help absorb
the excess humidity

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or give back a little bit
of humidity to the loaf.

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If you are in an
extremely dry environment,

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the dryness will go
through the weave.

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In that case, grab
a plastic bag.

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Cover it up.

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But still use a
cloth so that it has

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a little bit of an in-between.

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If you're in a very,
very humid environment,

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still use this cloth.

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00:13:56,770 --> 00:14:00,850
Just make sure you change the
cloth as soon as it's humid.

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00:14:00,850 --> 00:14:02,350
If you're going to
freeze the bread,

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make sure to freeze it in
as big pieces as possible.

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A half is ideal.

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Wait until it's entirely cooled
down before you freeze it.

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[MUSIC PLAYING]

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00:14:14,988 --> 00:14:17,278
I'm going to walk you through
some mistakes that happen

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as we're baking the loaves.

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00:14:19,170 --> 00:14:21,390
You may never run
into these mistakes,

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00:14:21,390 --> 00:14:23,190
or you may do it
over and over again

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00:14:23,190 --> 00:14:26,050
until you manage to overcome it.

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00:14:26,050 --> 00:14:28,080
Let's start with some raw dough.

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In this case, I
wanted to demonstrate

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00:14:31,530 --> 00:14:33,990
the over-proofed dough.

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00:14:33,990 --> 00:14:37,740
The over-proofed dough will
have stuck to the linen.

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00:14:37,740 --> 00:14:42,060
So this if I were to bake it
would be extremely sticky.

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00:14:42,060 --> 00:14:44,370
And it will deflate as well.

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00:14:44,370 --> 00:14:47,760
This conversely is an
under-proofed dough.

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00:14:47,760 --> 00:14:51,900
It hasn't risen enough and
has somewhat collapsed inside.

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00:14:51,900 --> 00:14:54,720
At this point, I would
still bake the loaf.

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00:14:54,720 --> 00:14:57,690
But just don't expect the
dough to be very airy.

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00:14:57,690 --> 00:15:00,600
It will be very
compact and tight.

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00:15:00,600 --> 00:15:04,110
You can also use this for
an entirely different use.

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00:15:04,110 --> 00:15:07,140
What I would do is just
use it as sourdough

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00:15:07,140 --> 00:15:10,710
for a batch of pancakes
instead of using yeast.

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00:15:10,710 --> 00:15:12,780
Moving on to the
baked doughs, this

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00:15:12,780 --> 00:15:15,990
is a range of problems
you may run into as you're

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00:15:15,990 --> 00:15:18,120
baking your loaves.

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00:15:18,120 --> 00:15:20,700
This loaf is clearly overcooked.

305
00:15:20,700 --> 00:15:22,290
It's burnt, in fact.

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00:15:22,290 --> 00:15:27,930
The black on the crust is
indicative of its being burnt.

307
00:15:27,930 --> 00:15:31,710
This burnt crust can
come from two things.

308
00:15:31,710 --> 00:15:34,800
Either your oven
heats up too much.

309
00:15:34,800 --> 00:15:37,980
And in that case, you need
to adjust your temperature.

310
00:15:37,980 --> 00:15:43,100
Or you've left your
loaf for too long.

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00:15:43,100 --> 00:15:45,600
In this case, we
have two issues.

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00:15:45,600 --> 00:15:47,750
First, I slashed too deep.

313
00:15:47,750 --> 00:15:54,350
And so we see on the side that
we have very wide scorings.

314
00:15:54,350 --> 00:15:57,350
And while you may
be looking for it,

315
00:15:57,350 --> 00:16:00,230
it actually doesn't
make for a great rise

316
00:16:00,230 --> 00:16:03,960
and doesn't really
help the momentum.

317
00:16:03,960 --> 00:16:07,500
And in this one, you have
these very large air pockets.

318
00:16:07,500 --> 00:16:10,470
Especially in your first
bakes, you might have that.

319
00:16:10,470 --> 00:16:15,720
And the dough here seems to
have almost like two circles.

320
00:16:15,720 --> 00:16:18,630
This probably has been
fostered by the way

321
00:16:18,630 --> 00:16:20,700
we've slashed the dough.

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00:16:24,320 --> 00:16:27,470
In this example, we have
bread that's under-proofed.

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00:16:27,470 --> 00:16:29,450
And there's several
ways I can tell.

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00:16:29,450 --> 00:16:34,220
First, comparing it with loaves
that are thoroughly proofed,

325
00:16:34,220 --> 00:16:35,390
it's not as high.

326
00:16:35,390 --> 00:16:39,500
I think what happened here was
the dough went into the oven

327
00:16:39,500 --> 00:16:40,970
and had a crust.

328
00:16:40,970 --> 00:16:44,360
As it was proofing in the
basket, it may have dried.

329
00:16:44,360 --> 00:16:47,030
And as a result of
that, even though we

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00:16:47,030 --> 00:16:49,670
slashed through the
dough, that dryness

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00:16:49,670 --> 00:16:52,400
prevented the loaf
from rising further.

332
00:16:52,400 --> 00:16:56,150
I can tell this by the
dryness around the scoring

333
00:16:56,150 --> 00:16:57,830
and the wrinkles on the side.

334
00:17:01,380 --> 00:17:05,790
In this loaf, I'm looking at
a loaf that was undercooked.

335
00:17:05,790 --> 00:17:09,300
This very blond
wheat-colored loaf

336
00:17:09,300 --> 00:17:11,580
doesn't have enough of a bake.

337
00:17:11,579 --> 00:17:14,189
If you've baked it the
right amount of time,

338
00:17:14,190 --> 00:17:18,090
that means your oven needs to
be set at a higher temperature.

339
00:17:18,089 --> 00:17:21,749
I would not use this
bread to eat plain.

340
00:17:21,750 --> 00:17:23,340
I would toast it.

341
00:17:23,339 --> 00:17:25,859
The other way I can tell
that this is undercooked

342
00:17:25,859 --> 00:17:27,059
is by knocking.

343
00:17:27,060 --> 00:17:29,430
The sound is a little more
muffled and a little less

344
00:17:29,430 --> 00:17:30,720
clear.

345
00:17:30,720 --> 00:17:33,270
In showing you these
examples, whether they're

346
00:17:33,270 --> 00:17:37,320
raw dough or baked loaves,
I want to bring and feed

347
00:17:37,320 --> 00:17:42,930
your mental library of what
the right look, feel, scent,

348
00:17:42,930 --> 00:17:45,030
touch is.

349
00:17:45,030 --> 00:17:47,200
As you develop your
baking practice,

350
00:17:47,200 --> 00:17:49,570
you will make this
second nature.

351
00:17:49,570 --> 00:17:50,700
But this is a jumpstart.

352
00:17:50,700 --> 00:17:53,450
[MUSIC PLAYING]