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APOLLONIA POILANE: We
often overlook rye.

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We see it as a very sturdy flour
and don't think of the richness

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that its very coarse and
rough appearance gives you.

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I find this bread to be
very floral, very tasty.

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It's wonderful with
butter and honey.

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There's an infinite possibility
of flavors and tastes

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in a slice like this.

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[MUSIC PLAYING]

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The rye breads we
make at Poilane

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have been the same
since my grandfather.

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We make a plain rye sourdough
loaf and a rye and currant

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spread.

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The recipe we're going
to do is a plain recipe.

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I think you really need
to master the plain dough,

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get a sense and feel
for what it smells like,

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how it feels under
your hand before you

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expand into different
variations on the loaf.

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Naturally, rye has
less gluten than wheat,

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so it also makes for
bread that's much

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denser than the wheat breads.

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The loaves are generally a
little smaller, not as risen.

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When I think in
American terms, I

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think of the Northern European
or Jewish rye breads that

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often have caraway in them.

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They are these very dense,
very moist, almost pumpernickel

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types of breads.

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Whereas when I think of rye
with the French mentality,

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I think of this grain that's
used typically in the regions

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where the soil is much poorer
because the rye grain requires

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so much less from the
fields, and so it's

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much easier to grow.

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And so in the poorer regions,
you will have breads of rye.

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This recipe is in
between easy and hard,

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and this is because the flour
tends to absorb a lot of water.

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So it's a very sticky
dough at first.

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Because the dough is
so coarse, because it's

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so rough and tough, it's
actually a great dough

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to learn how to shape a loaf.

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[MUSIC PLAYING]

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If you've done the
sourdough starter

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and have kept about
a cup of it, you

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can use the leftover
for your rye recipe.

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It should be just enough.

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In this recipe, I not
only use the sourdough,

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but I supplement it with
a little bit of yeast.

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The rye flour is a very
hard flour to have expand,

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so I just do this to
facilitate the job.

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Here, I'm using a mixture of 70%
rye flour and 30% bread flour

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to make the dough
easier to work with.

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As you develop your
baking practice,

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I encourage you to work
up to 100% rye flour.

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So we have sourdough,
a little bit of yeast.

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We have some sea salt--
coarse sea salt--

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flour, and water.

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I'm going to put the sourdough,
the salt, and the yeast,

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but I'm going to activate a
little bit the yeast by pouring

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a little bit of water on
it-- say, a tablespoon--

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and waiting a couple of
minutes, just enough time

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to put in the other ingredients.

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I'm going to do the same
thing with the salts.

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Now, the reason why I
soak the salts in water

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is just because I want
to dissolve the salt.

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It's just that it's
such a small batch,

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you don't want to wind
up with a pocket of salt.

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We have my active
dry yeast, which

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I've activated with water.

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Once you mix it, it starts
creating air bubbles,

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and that's a good sign
that it's ready to roll.

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I'm going to start putting about
a cup of my sourdough starter.

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There we go.

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Put that aside.

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Then I put the salt mixture.

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Now, a quick trick
here is to make

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sure you put the yeast on one
side and the salt on the other.

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Because otherwise, one
anuls the work of the other.

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I put the flour.

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I'm pouring to
water on the sides,

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and this is just to help
me detach the dough.

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I'm just going to put a little
bit of flour on my hands

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and start working it.

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So I'm using my
hand as a scooper,

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and my first gestures are really
about delving into the dough

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and bringing it together to
create a homogeneous mass.

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It's very sticky, but I
can take it in my hand

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and squeeze it off
without impacting

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its fermentation thereafter.

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So where as there
are some recipes

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that I will use a
standalone mixer

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to make sure that I
have a light hand,

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here, I actually want
to bring, forcefully,

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the ingredients together.

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I use one hand on the
sides and the other one

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to scoop together the
ingredients, to blend them in,

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to knead the dough.

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I know that this dough
has come together

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when I see a homogeneous mass.

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I have this oatmeal texture.

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It's very wet.

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You can hear it being
very sticky-ish.

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That's what deters a lot
of people from this dough.

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But actually, this is
the fun part of it,

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that it's very easy to wean
off your hands thereafter.

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So I'm using the dough scraper
just to scrape it off my hands.

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Try to refrain from
using water at this point

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because you are throwing off
the balance here of the dough.

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My dough has come together.

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What I'm going to
do is I'm going

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to turn this dough onto
the working surface,

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just to bring it
into one big mass.

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So flour your working surface.

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Use the excess to dry out
your hands a little bit.

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There we go.

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And scrape it down.

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It feels heavy, and I'm really
holding part of the bowl

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against myself to
help me grab it.

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I'm going to dry out
my hands once again.

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I'm going to flour the surface
on which I'm going to rest it

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for a couple of seconds.

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This next gesture is just about
finishing off the kneading.

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And so the first thing
that I like to do--

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and this is not a baker's trick.

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It's just my own little habit.

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I like to turn over the dough.

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And if it's resisting
like here, that's fine.

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Just scrape it out a little
bit, and re-flour your surface.

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That will definitely
happen your first times.

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Because rye absorbs
so much water,

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you can flour your surface.

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Most recipes, we
say don't over-flour

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because otherwise,
you're throwing off

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the balance in the recipes.

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But I really want to
not be afraid here

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because the rye is actually
working in our favor.

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It's very sticky, and
that's why you need

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to sort of work fast on it.

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So I poured it out, and really,
immediately, flour your hands.

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Toss it over on one end.

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And this is when
you're going to start

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getting a sense of what it
feels like-- even just hold it

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in your hands.

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And because this
dough is so coarse,

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this is a dough where
you can allow yourself

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to take a couple of more minutes
to do it or be a little too

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heavy-handed on it.

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I look at this, and I try and
imagine that this is a flower.

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We have the center in mind,
and these are all petals--

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or imaginary petals.

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And I'm trying to just fold
the petals into the center,

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as if I was closing the flower.

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So I'm going to do
that all around.

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And if it sticks on the
bottom, not to worry,

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just pick it up, flour your
surface, and start over again.

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The kneading actually activates
the whole fermentation process.

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And in my view,
it gives the dough

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an energy that will
eventually translate

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into your style of baking.

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So I like to lead with
force, and I'm just

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bringing these petals in the
center to give my loaf of bread

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a sense of unity.

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Once you've circled around
your flower, then I'll just,

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one last time, turn it over
and just tuck it a little bit

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and bring it like
this, onto a surface

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to rest for about an hour
and a half before we shape it

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and proof it in a mold.

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So in this first proofing, I
leave it on a working surface.

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I'm covering this
dough with a cloth

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so that it's in a
draft-free space

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and the crust
doesn't become dry.

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In this first rise, you're
looking for a time cue,

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not so much an expansion.

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Because the rye flour,
having less gluten,

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doesn't expand as much.

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And so take the hour and
a half at 20 to 25 degrees

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Celsius in a draft-free
space as your cue.

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[MUSIC PLAYING]

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Our loaf has risen for
about an hour and a half.

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It's expanded.

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But whereas in the
wheat loaves, you're

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looking for an expansion
that's around double in size,

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here it'll be much less,
anywhere between 20%, 30%,

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40%--

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not much more.

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So we are going to
uncover the loaf.

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It's grown.

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It can get a little dry
on the top, and that's OK.

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I floured my surface.

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I'll flour my hands to just
grab it and put it face down

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on your working surface.

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If you want to rise it a little
longer because you don't have

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signs that the dough
has risen much,

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you can bring it up
to about two hours.

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But try not to do it longer
because I would be concerned

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that your dough
would over-ferment,

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and that will tend to
collapse the dough thereafter

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or might even just make for
a tang that's not pleasant.

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So we're going to
shape this loaf

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and put it into our
little proofing baskets.

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This is where it will
rise for a second time.

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As you use your baskets,
batch after batch,

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it will develop an environment
that will favor fermentation.

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So don't wash those.

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And if you're using a brand
new basket, in that case,

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just spray a little
bit of water.

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Throw in some flour into it.

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And before I forget--

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because once your
hands are dirty,

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you can't flour your basket--

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sprinkle the sides.

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I'm exaggerating
it here a little,

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but I'd rather you err on
too much than not enough.

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You can always tap
down that excess flour

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once you've unmolded your
bread or once it's baked.

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What I'm going to do here
is treat this piece of dough

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as if it were a ball, and
I'm going to use the table

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to circle it from top
left to bottom right,

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tucking the dough to create a
ball that's perfectly shaped

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and into the basket.

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At this stage, the fact that
we're reshaping the dough

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is very much like
that stage that people

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have in mind when they
say they punched a dough.

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And actually, when
I was an apprentice,

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this was one of
my favorite parts.

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Doing it with the rye,
that's such a sturdy dough,

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really is satisfying
because you can't go wrong.

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It comes together.

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But what was more satisfying
is that as a baker,

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you really have the feeling
you're giving a breath, a feel,

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a life to this dough.

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And this is why I love,
love, love shaping doughs.

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So as you can see, it's sticky.

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That's the main thing here.

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And so I'm taking
this dough, and I'm

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going to bring it on the sides.

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And I'm using my left hand here.

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If you're a lefty, just use
the inverse indications.

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And just tucking it under.

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If your surface is too floured,
then it will tend to slip.

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That's OK.

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00:12:01,870 --> 00:12:03,520
It's cracking on the top.

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00:12:03,520 --> 00:12:06,070
No worries, that's
just because it's

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going through the little
crust that had occurred

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from the first fermentation.

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What I'm doing here is
giving it a specific shape.

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Although it doesn't
have a perfect surface,

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that's absolutely fine.

246
00:12:18,200 --> 00:12:19,630
Do not worry.

247
00:12:19,630 --> 00:12:22,860
The loaf will do
its job in the oven.

248
00:12:22,860 --> 00:12:28,560
I take it from the bottom,
and I turn it into the basket.

249
00:12:28,560 --> 00:12:29,940
I cover it up.

250
00:12:29,940 --> 00:12:32,880
And I let it rise for
an hour and a half

251
00:12:32,880 --> 00:12:34,740
in a draft-free space.

252
00:12:34,740 --> 00:12:37,110
What I'm looking
for here is a rise

253
00:12:37,110 --> 00:12:40,080
where the dough will expand
to fit the whole mold.

254
00:12:40,080 --> 00:12:41,910
It can go a little beyond.

255
00:12:41,910 --> 00:12:43,320
That's not a problem.

256
00:12:43,320 --> 00:12:47,600
It won't go much more than
two fingers from the top.

257
00:12:47,600 --> 00:12:50,920
Covering it up
and ready to wait.

258
00:12:50,920 --> 00:12:55,160
[MUSIC PLAYING]

259
00:12:55,160 --> 00:12:57,910
So here we go.

260
00:12:57,910 --> 00:13:03,160
And here, I see a loaf that's
on the lower rise side.

261
00:13:03,160 --> 00:13:04,210
That's OK.

262
00:13:04,210 --> 00:13:07,060
You've seen it expanded
because the key has opened up

263
00:13:07,060 --> 00:13:07,960
a little bit.

264
00:13:07,960 --> 00:13:09,790
It just hasn't expanded
that much more.

265
00:13:09,790 --> 00:13:11,590
At this point, I
wouldn't wait longer.

266
00:13:11,590 --> 00:13:13,660
It's been an hour and a half.

267
00:13:13,660 --> 00:13:16,660
Push it to two if
you feel but no more.

268
00:13:16,660 --> 00:13:19,870
With this loaf, you really
don't want to get to the point

269
00:13:19,870 --> 00:13:24,040
where the sourdough and
the rye become tangy, sour,

270
00:13:24,040 --> 00:13:26,350
and over-fermented.

271
00:13:26,350 --> 00:13:29,080
So in this recipe, I'm
using a nonstick sheet here.

272
00:13:29,080 --> 00:13:30,820
You could use parchment paper.

273
00:13:30,820 --> 00:13:33,820
If you feel like baking
this bread in a cocotte,

274
00:13:33,820 --> 00:13:35,600
that's absolutely fine.

275
00:13:35,600 --> 00:13:37,450
In fact, baking it
in the Dutch oven

276
00:13:37,450 --> 00:13:39,670
can give it some extra lift.

277
00:13:39,670 --> 00:13:41,380
I'm doing this on
the baking sheet

278
00:13:41,380 --> 00:13:45,460
to illustrate that this loaf,
because it doesn't expend all

279
00:13:45,460 --> 00:13:50,470
that much, it's absolutely fine
to bake bare on a baking sheet.

280
00:13:50,470 --> 00:13:53,260
The idea is you're going to do
this somewhat forceful movement

281
00:13:53,260 --> 00:13:53,890
where are you going to--

282
00:13:53,890 --> 00:13:55,520
I'm going to use my
hand here, but just

283
00:13:55,515 --> 00:13:57,465
for the demonstration--

284
00:13:57,460 --> 00:13:59,530
turn it over.

285
00:13:59,530 --> 00:14:03,560
So this is the movement
you're going to do.

286
00:14:03,560 --> 00:14:05,360
Now, I have my loaf.

287
00:14:05,360 --> 00:14:08,420
It's got volume, but
it will be sturdy.

288
00:14:08,420 --> 00:14:10,250
It's not very airy.

289
00:14:10,250 --> 00:14:12,260
If your dough sticks
to the basket,

290
00:14:12,260 --> 00:14:16,550
stick the side onto one
end, and use your hand

291
00:14:16,550 --> 00:14:19,490
to delicately try and
scrape off the dough

292
00:14:19,490 --> 00:14:22,310
so that it falls onto
the baking sheet.

293
00:14:22,310 --> 00:14:26,210
If this happens, it's just that
you haven't floured your basket

294
00:14:26,210 --> 00:14:29,180
enough or that it's been
so humid that the dough has

295
00:14:29,180 --> 00:14:31,970
absorbed all of the flour.

296
00:14:31,970 --> 00:14:35,960
Maybe your dough structure on
the top won't be as beautiful.

297
00:14:35,960 --> 00:14:38,510
In that case, just
change your scoring.

298
00:14:38,510 --> 00:14:42,560
Scoring the dough helps to give
one last human intervention

299
00:14:42,560 --> 00:14:44,360
before it gets baked.

300
00:14:44,360 --> 00:14:46,520
And you want to do
this because we're all

301
00:14:46,520 --> 00:14:48,500
about bringing the
starter that we've

302
00:14:48,500 --> 00:14:50,940
bred up to its full potential.

303
00:14:50,940 --> 00:14:54,320
The scoring helps with
the dough to expand fully.

304
00:14:54,320 --> 00:14:58,100
If your dough has
under-proofing,

305
00:14:58,100 --> 00:15:02,000
a deeper slash will help
give it more energy.

306
00:15:02,000 --> 00:15:05,000
Conversely, if your
dough has over-proofing,

307
00:15:05,000 --> 00:15:07,700
a very light
scoring is necessary

308
00:15:07,700 --> 00:15:11,270
so that you don't let
the dough collapse.

309
00:15:11,270 --> 00:15:15,440
So to score dough, you really
need a very, very sharp tool.

310
00:15:15,440 --> 00:15:16,880
You can use a knife.

311
00:15:16,880 --> 00:15:20,480
But honestly, a razor
blade is your best friend.

312
00:15:20,480 --> 00:15:23,300
So here, I'm going to
score a simple hash.

313
00:15:23,300 --> 00:15:25,130
I'm just going to cut
through the dough.

314
00:15:25,130 --> 00:15:26,960
Make sure that your
blade is fresh.

315
00:15:26,960 --> 00:15:31,200
If it's a little old, then it
won't cut through it as easily.

316
00:15:31,200 --> 00:15:33,080
You can see that
the dough slowly

317
00:15:33,080 --> 00:15:36,470
opens up as you slash through.

318
00:15:36,470 --> 00:15:40,520
This is a great loaf to try
and test different scorings.

319
00:15:40,520 --> 00:15:43,400
Because it's so sturdy,
it will actually

320
00:15:43,400 --> 00:15:46,310
be very resilient
to more scoring.

321
00:15:46,310 --> 00:15:48,290
Whereas the wheat
loaf, really err

322
00:15:48,290 --> 00:15:50,450
on the side of something light.

323
00:15:50,450 --> 00:15:52,670
My loaf is ready to
go into the oven.

324
00:15:52,670 --> 00:15:54,890
It's going to bake
for at least an hour.

325
00:15:54,890 --> 00:15:57,800
You really want this bread to
be baked at heart so that it

326
00:15:57,800 --> 00:16:00,580
can keep for four to five days.

327
00:16:00,576 --> 00:16:04,716
[MUSIC PLAYING]

328
00:16:04,713 --> 00:16:06,383
The bread is out of
the oven, and you're

329
00:16:06,380 --> 00:16:07,910
going to let it
cool down on a rack

330
00:16:07,910 --> 00:16:10,160
until you're able to
use your bare hands.

331
00:16:10,160 --> 00:16:13,580
One great way to tell that
the bread is finished baking

332
00:16:13,580 --> 00:16:14,810
is the knock test.

333
00:16:14,810 --> 00:16:17,300
So you put the
bread on the side,

334
00:16:17,300 --> 00:16:20,160
and you knock on the bottom.

335
00:16:20,160 --> 00:16:21,800
Now, that sound-- that--

336
00:16:21,800 --> 00:16:23,570
like as if you were
knocking on a door--

337
00:16:23,570 --> 00:16:25,760
is an indication
that it's well-baked.

338
00:16:25,760 --> 00:16:29,000
If there's a muffle
to the sound,

339
00:16:29,000 --> 00:16:32,840
then you can bake the
bread for a little longer.

340
00:16:32,840 --> 00:16:35,900
Even if it's
slightly overcooked--

341
00:16:35,900 --> 00:16:38,580
and you can tell this
mainly by the cracks--

342
00:16:38,580 --> 00:16:39,440
that's fine.

343
00:16:39,440 --> 00:16:42,770
I would rather you have a
slightly overdone crust,

344
00:16:42,770 --> 00:16:45,290
but that the crumb at
heart is well baked.

345
00:16:45,290 --> 00:16:48,530
The knock test on the rye
and on the sourdough loaf

346
00:16:48,530 --> 00:16:50,040
really sound the same.

347
00:16:50,040 --> 00:16:53,690
And that's because you have
the same crumb structure.

348
00:16:53,690 --> 00:16:56,900
So you're going to let it cool
on the rack for about an hour.

349
00:16:56,900 --> 00:17:01,070
That should be enough for it
to be cut through and devoured.

350
00:17:01,070 --> 00:17:02,960
When you're cutting
this loaf, you

351
00:17:02,960 --> 00:17:05,960
want to make sure that you
have it at arm's length.

352
00:17:05,960 --> 00:17:10,160
The crust of the rye bread tends
to be rather coarse and thick,

353
00:17:10,160 --> 00:17:14,000
so be aware that your knife
might have a tendency to slip.

354
00:17:14,000 --> 00:17:17,320
You can help yourself by keeping
your elbow and arm straight.

355
00:17:20,260 --> 00:17:23,760
Now, this is wonderful because
it's just flowing through.

356
00:17:23,760 --> 00:17:28,710
If it's a little resistant,
just do a first small insert

357
00:17:28,710 --> 00:17:32,650
to help anchor your
cuts thereafter.

358
00:17:32,650 --> 00:17:37,720
All right, this is beautiful.

359
00:17:37,720 --> 00:17:40,360
It's got these nice
floral flavors.

360
00:17:40,360 --> 00:17:41,950
This is a beautiful rise.

361
00:17:41,950 --> 00:17:45,640
It doesn't look like it's a very
expansive bread, and it's not.

362
00:17:45,640 --> 00:17:47,500
The crumb is very thick.

363
00:17:47,500 --> 00:17:50,980
Because this loaf is still
ever so slightly warm,

364
00:17:50,980 --> 00:17:54,760
the inside has these little
balls of fresh dough.

365
00:17:54,760 --> 00:17:59,350
But here, what I'm looking for
is a regular crumb structure,

366
00:17:59,350 --> 00:18:05,140
no major air pockets, and
just this nice, smooth shape,

367
00:18:05,140 --> 00:18:08,590
even though you can see that
the slice won't be perfect.

368
00:18:08,590 --> 00:18:11,290
And that's just
because of the scoring.

369
00:18:11,290 --> 00:18:14,290
Now, once you've cut
this loaf in half,

370
00:18:14,290 --> 00:18:18,610
I like to put it on the
side to cut a quarter.

371
00:18:18,610 --> 00:18:23,630
[KNIFE SCRAPING AGAINST BREAD]

372
00:18:23,630 --> 00:18:26,860
And then start slicing through.

373
00:18:26,858 --> 00:18:32,508
It just creates a first little
slot to anchor your cuts.

374
00:18:32,510 --> 00:18:38,270
And you can make it
through the thick crust

375
00:18:38,270 --> 00:18:39,980
and have a perfect slice.

376
00:18:39,980 --> 00:18:43,700
A bread like this one will
store for about five days.

377
00:18:43,700 --> 00:18:46,100
You can probably get
it up to a week--

378
00:18:46,100 --> 00:18:48,500
or if you're in a very
hot and humid environment,

379
00:18:48,500 --> 00:18:51,140
maybe more three to five days.

380
00:18:51,140 --> 00:18:53,090
Keep it in a piece of linen.

381
00:18:53,090 --> 00:18:55,700
What you're trying to
do here is to protect it

382
00:18:55,700 --> 00:18:58,430
from drying out,
yet not creating

383
00:18:58,430 --> 00:19:01,760
an airtight environment
that will foster moldiness.

384
00:19:01,760 --> 00:19:04,580
When I look at this slice, what
I like about it is that there's

385
00:19:04,580 --> 00:19:06,560
no major air pockets here.

386
00:19:06,560 --> 00:19:09,080
They're speckled
throughout the slice.

387
00:19:09,080 --> 00:19:12,740
If I cut through
it, there's a sense

388
00:19:12,740 --> 00:19:17,210
of the bread being very well
kept together, so it's not

389
00:19:17,210 --> 00:19:19,850
overly sticky or flaky.

390
00:19:19,850 --> 00:19:22,430
A little butter or a
little butter and honey

391
00:19:22,430 --> 00:19:26,600
really makes for a
delicious morning tartine,

392
00:19:26,600 --> 00:19:31,520
but it can also be a great
loaf to go with fish or even

393
00:19:31,520 --> 00:19:33,410
with certain meats.

394
00:19:33,410 --> 00:19:35,960
The real test when
you're baking your bread

395
00:19:35,960 --> 00:19:38,570
is to see how much you enjoy
it with a little bit of butter

396
00:19:38,570 --> 00:19:39,070
on it.

397
00:19:39,070 --> 00:19:42,260
[MUSIC PLAYING]

398
00:19:42,260 --> 00:19:43,370
Delicious.

399
00:19:43,370 --> 00:19:45,290
This slice is
absolutely fabulous.

400
00:19:45,290 --> 00:19:48,040
[MUSIC PLAYING]